There’s a different Goa off the tourist trail, beyond the beaches, bars, forts and flea markets. Hop onto a ferry and glide along the tranquil waters to get transported into the charming riverine island of Divar. Languid and laid-back, this unspoilt slice of rural paradise surrounded by marshy waters spells quietude, in sharp contrast to the hipster vibe of the city. Escaping to the second largest island in the Mandovi River is one of the most offbeat things to do in Goa.

Walk the island

Just 6 kilometres in length and 3 kilometres in width, Divar is a walker’s delight, but biking across the island is considered to be among the most enjoyable activities in Goa. Vibrant facades of colonial Portuguese houses are scattered along the single-lane roads that cut through the scenic villages and hills that dot the landscape. This is the place to see everyday traditional life in all its colours, spot locals sitting patiently with fishing rods dangling in the river and bump into people setting up shop to earn their daily meal. From lush paddy fields to dense forest patches, the island is painted in all shades of green. With the fresh breeze in your hair and sweet birdsong in your ears, let time slow down and just be.

See the sights

As one of the first places taken over by the Portuguese in Goa, Divar has a rich colonial history. The island is made up of three villages - Piedade, Malar and Naroa. The largest and most delightful, Piedade is known for the fascinating ruins of the Kadamba dynasty. The archaeological site dating back to the 10th-12th centuries houses the remains of a stepped tank leading to a water body and the 108 small temple niches, now devoid of deities. The tiny island was a Hindu pilgrimage centre before the mass-scale religious conversions took place. The revered 12th-century Saptkoteshwar Temple, which housed the family deity of the Kadambas, is a reminder of this ancient heritage. You can also decide to continue a familiar theme of Goa sightseeing in Divar by going on a church hunt. The 400-year old Sao Mathias Church is a typically Portuguese construction located in Malar village, where the religious transformation of Divar into Christian faith began. Our Lady of Compassion (also called Our Lady of Piety Church), perched on a hilltop in Piedade, is an important landmark since it is the first Christian building on the island. Go the extra mile to visit it and be rewarded with a wide-angle view of the countryside, the Mandovi River and even Old Goa.

Soak in the culture

Divar sparkles and shines even more during August when the carnival atmosphere of the Bonderam Festival kicks in. Witness a visual spectacle of colourful floats, mix with friendly locals and enjoy an old-world cultural experience minus the trappings of pomp and show.
Seek ‘Susegad' and escape to tranquility in Divar

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