One look at Sarkhej Roza and you realize why legendary architect Le Corbusier described it as ‘Ahmed¬abad’s Acropolis’. Located in a village about 7 km from the capital of Gujarat, the architectural complex is an extraordinary necropolis, where the tombs of the city’s patron saint Haz-rat Shaikh Ahmed Khattu and 15th-century Sultan rulers lie shrouded behind lusciously latticed walls. Paying homage to the site is one of the top things to do in Ahmedabad.

First flush of magic

Sarkhej Roza is a hidden gem frozen in time, within a dusty village on the outskirts of the city and a worthy option as an Ahmedabad day tour. Crossing the threshold of an unassuming gateway, as you take first steps into the 72-acre complex, the weary world transforms into an ethereal sanctuary. Imagine the original grandeur of the imperial necropolis, when it was surrounded by gardens filled with flowering trees on all sides. Feel the goosebumps on your skin.

Dominating the open courtyard is the mausoleum of Sufi saint, Shaikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj Bakhsh, the largest of its kind in the state of Gujarat. Aside from the 12-m-high monolithic dome, its most arresting feature is the elaborate stone trellis-work that drapes the walls. Steal a glimpse of the saint’s tomb inside, surrounded by a curtain of intricately perforated brass screens. The influence of stone carvings from Jain temples of Rajasthan and Gujarat is striking.

In front of the mausoleum, stands the Baradari, an ornately carved stone pavilion with sixteen pillars that hold up nine domes. The floor is a wonderful mosaic of coloured stones. On the opposite side, there are two mausoleums containing the tombs of the Gujarat Sultanate royals. A few steps away, one can seek out the large mosque, a vast space surrounded by cloisters and 120 pillars. The resemblance to Ahmedabad architecture is evident.

Syncretic spirit

The best way to imbibe the soul of the place is to let yourself float free for a while. Follow the play of light piercing through the filigree-like latticework on windows. Trace the long shadows cast by the simple geometric patterns along the dark corridors. Wander through the shady pavilions and peek through the projecting balconies, where flights of stone steps lead to the 17-acre Sarkhej Lake. The distant ruins of the royal palace and harem whisper wordless tales of bygone glories. This was once a ‘people’s place’, where commoners gathered, bound together by an inclusive faith. Ponder upon the Sufi spirit of Sarkej Roza, which oozes from the Indo-Saracenic architectural style in the buildings around you. Multi-cultural stylistic traditions come together in a harmonious melody with Islamic style pillars, brackets and ringed domes that are adorned profusely with typically Indian motifs. Keep your eyes peeled for finer details on every inch of artistically chiselled space.

As a celebrated venue for poetry gatherings and Sufi festivals, Sarkhej Roza still resonates with the aura of its patron saint, even after centuries. But even without the music, the devotees and the sacred threads, as you sit under the shade of the Peepul tree in the courtyard, you can feel the all-pervading tranquillity of the necropolis, nestled like a lotus in a murky pond, not far away from the ever-expanding sprawl of hectic urbanism.

Lose yourself to the marvels of this architectural gem on the Ahmedabad Through The Ages walking tour.

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