From royal patronage and religious tradition to international runways, India's timeless fabrics and embroideries continue to spin their eternal charm.On the day that the country celebrates Gandhiji's birthday, it is but fitting to begin with one of the most humble yet versatile fabrics - khadi.
Gandhi revived India's Khadi industry and positioned the handspun, handwoven fabric to symbolise 'Swadeshi'. Today, even after nearly seven decades, Khadi continues to be preferred as a natural, organic fabric, even internationally. Sabyasachi Mukherjee believes that Khadi is "the equivalent of wellness, and nothing can be more luxurious than that."
The cultural identity of India changes every few kilometres, as does its cuisine, language, customs, festivals, crafts and even textiles. Traditional handloom has always had a place in our hearts. But now the world of global couture is getting hooked too. Roberto Cavalli (Bandhej), Hermès (Kantha), Christian Louboutin (Kanjeevaram silk), Jimmy Choo (Benarasi brocade), Missoni (Lucknowi Chikankari), and Gucci (Gujarati patola) are only a few examples.
How many of these fabrics occupy a pride of place in your wardrobe? How much do you know about the painstaking craftsmanship that goes into making these pieces of wearable heritage? Time for a checklist!
Ikat: A favourite with handloom lovers, the double Ikat of Pochampally, Telangana is made by tying a set of threads in a predefined order to create classic geometric patterns. Pochampally village is recognised by UNESCO as an 'iconic saree weaving cluster of India'.
Sanganeri: Developed in the 16th-17th centuries, this ancient block-printed craft continues to thrive in Sanganer, Rajasthan, thanks to the 'Chippa' community. The soft cotton fabric printed with motifs of deities, flowers, fruits and folk scenes, has retained its allure, even for the fashion-forward millennial.
Phulkari: The Punjab region is famous for Phulkari (flower work), a rural, handmade embroidery (horizontal, vertical, and diagonal) done on the reverse of rough cotton cloth like Khaddar. Commonly available in reds, oranges and yellows, Phulkari fabric is adorned with bird, animal, flower, and leaf designs.
Bandhej: Dating back to 4000 BC, the era of the Indus Valley Civilisation, the antique art of Bandhej uses tight knots tied on fabric and dyeing it in vibrant colours to create patterns of white dots. Outfits, turbans and Odhnis of Bandhej have never gone out of fashion.
Kanjeevaram: Lustrous silk sarees with actual gold thread weave have origins in the temple city of Kanchipuram near Chennai. Brilliant contrasting borders, lotus motifs and elaborate embroidery work impart heirloom status to these precious sarees.
Banarasi: One of India's most refined and richest sarees owes its name and lineage to the holy city of Varanasi. Gold and silver brocade, fine silk, and intricate embroidery make it integral to every Indian bride's trousseau. Typical Mughal inspired designs include creepers, floral motifs, strings of leaves and minute figures of deities.
Embrace the textile traditions of India with our tours across cities. Some fascinating picks are 'Arty-Crafty Ahmedabad', 'Hyderabad: Hub of Handicrafts', 'Spirit of Sanganer in Jaipur' and 'Hues of Heirloom Textile in Jodhpur'.